We are back asea after many and wondrous adventures in Antarctica. We are now in the Drake Passage making time for Cape Horn. This morning saw deep fog which lifted in time to show us the wonders of Deception Island. This is an island in the South Shetland chain which is aptly named. Discovered in 1820 by a Royal Navy Captain -the island appears unassuming from most angles but at one point a narrow passage called Neptune's Bellows opens into one of the world's largest harbours and it is possible to sail right into an active volcano. The harbour is actually the caldera of the volcano and all recent eruptions have occured around the rim rather than in the main crater though they tell us that occasionally the crater heaves and water rushes through the narrows in a great surge that has swamped unsuspecting ships. The soil near the base of the island is so hot that digging down less than 1 foot yields water hot enough to scald unprotected skin. Occasional schools of krill are washed by currents into the harbour and in shallow water are accidently cooked - apparently this is a great treat for the birds of the island. The island has many spectacular rock formations and colours of rock and volcanic soil not yet eroded away by the harsh weather. it is a major breeding ground for Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins and they climb all over the island to amazing heights to nest and rear their chicks.
After the adventure of Deception Island which included thousands of penguins and several pods of humpback whales, we headed back out to open ocean and are now whizzing northwards to our next point of interest - Cape Horn - or the Southernmost point of the America's and the Northernmost point of Drake Passage.
Once back at sea with ocean for scenery we turn inward to amuse ourselves. Dale once again took the edifying route of listening to lectures on everything from finance to Antarctic flora and fauna. I, on the other hand, went crafty and attended an origami 'class' where I successfully constructed a penguin despite an abyssmal instructor - and I do mean AWFUL - Donna (of Florida fame) and I taught ourselves the basics then bartered for additional materials from various staff and offices and sat down at our favourite cafe/bar and made and entire colony of penguins all dressed in black and orange and gathered such a crowd that the barkeeps must have made a little extra. Our hard work paid off when some German tourists came and asked if we would make them some so we cranked out a further dozen and made ourselves $60US. Dale and Joe scoffed and said we undersold ourselves but we are quite satisfied with the results of our efforts and plan to make whales if we can find a pattern.
That, in a nutshell, is another day at sea. We are headed for warmer climes and the wilds of Tierra del Fuego and the Beagle passage.
Special thanks once again to Jennifer for posting more photos on our behalf. The first is not a dead penguin - it is a very live chick basking in the sun. They look very very dead and then suddenly jump up and run off. Very funny. The second is a view of some of the fablulous rock formations on East Falkland. It was a very beautiful location and we agree with the penguins in their choice of rookery site. The third is an adult Gentoo penguin nesting. unfortunately this poor fellow is rather late with his nesting and his chick is unlikely to survive the coming winter because it will not have time to molt and develop adult feathers before taking to the sea. this is nature in its wisdom - ours is not to question. His father is a fine looking fellow though and we wish him well.
Off to yet another fine meal with fine company -
Adieu
D&M
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